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BPA is used in the manufacturing of some plastic baby bottles. NOTE: Photo is for illustration purposes only. No adverse manufacturing processes are implied in the making of the product shown. (Amdavis, Stock.Xchng)

By Mike Brandolino

When we purchase food, toys, household items, and other products for our infants and children, we rely on the manufacturers to create safe merchandise. Some toys are not what they seem, however. In fact, many contain substances that harm infants and children. California recently joined 10 other states in banning the chemical BPA from infant and children’s products. Here is some background on BPA and its brushes with the law.

BPA, or bisphenol A, is an ingredient in many hard plastic products, including baby bottles, sippy cups, and toys. It is also used as an ingredient in food product can liners, including canned infant formula. BPA is a known endocrine (hormone) disruptor, which may cause child development problems. BPA has been linked to autism, breast cancer, childhood obesity, early puberty, and hyperactivity.

The US Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) reports that recyclable plastic products marked with a number 3 or 7 may contain BPA, but plastic products with the numbers 1, 2, 4, 5, and 6 are unlikely to contain BPA.

The DHHS and the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) state that the benefits of plastic packaging, including packaging that contains BPA, outweigh the health and environmental risks. Both agencies also state that more research is needed to assess potential BPA health hazards. The EPA is continuing to investigate the health and environmental effects of BPA. Instead of waiting for the EPA’s test results, however, California legislators went ahead and banned BPA based on the strong evidence already available.

There has been a nine-to-one margin in laboratory studies indicating that BPA causes harmful health effects (90%), as opposed to no health effects (10%). When harmful effects occur 90 percent of the time with any ingredient or product, it cannot be considered safe to use.

This October, California Governor Jerry Brown signed the Toxin-Free Infants and Toddlers Act (Assembly Bill 1319) into state law, and it will go into effect on July 13, 2013.  The purpose of the law is to protect children from potential health hazards that may result from BPA exposure and consumption. It bans the use of BPA in all products related to babies and children. California Assembly Member Betsy Butler (D) introduced the bill into legislation, which gained the support of the governor and many legislators.

California has some of strictest health and environmental laws and regulations in the United States. The banning of BPA in California further widens the gap between state and federal health laws and regulations. The California Legislature Assembly Bill 1319, which bans the use of BPA in children’s products, can be reviewed online.

 For related articles, see:
Thanksgiving Trouble: BPA in Canned Food
Side Effect of Plastic: Aggressive Kids

© 2011 SCGH, LLC. 

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An airtight and insulated attic is a happy attic. Your wallet will thank you for it. (By Marin Blair)

Story and photos by Marin Blair

Proper insulation and air sealing, especially in a cold climate,  is critical to keeping a home comfortable, eco-friendly, and energy efficient.

You’ve probably heard this before: Increasing the amount of insulation in your attic and walls can help to trap heat in the house, resulting in a more comfortable temperature and lower energy bills. Insulation works by creating a thermal boundary between the interior and exterior of a building. Insulation, which is available in a variety of different materials, works to stop conductive heat flow because it has a high R-value. R-value is a measurement of thermal resistance and slows the rate at which heat is lost from a building’s shell.

But there’s something most types of insulation aren’t so good at: stopping air. Air leakage is important because we pay big bucks to condition the air in our homes. Intuitively, air wants to follow the path of least resistance and will naturally find holes in the building where it can leak to the outside. Often the most vulnerable area for holes in the home is the surface of the attic. Sometimes these holes are minor and common construction flaws, but bigger unintentional holes can cause significant heat loss to the attic and can lead to problems such as ice dams, attic condensation, and mold. Here are some examples of these troubling leakage spots in an attic:

• Electrical penetrations;
• Lighting fixtures;
• Dropped soffits (a soffit is the underside of a beam, arch, or other architectural component);
• Open interior wall cavities;
• Ventilation exhaust fans;
• Mechanical equipment and ductwork;
• Chimneys and flue stacks; and
• Plumbing vents.

Unfortunately, once air has leaked through these holes, insulation alone is usually not enough to stop it. Air can easily travel through cellulose and fiberglass, two of the most common materials used to insulate homes today. Although these materials are not airtight, large amounts of insulation can work to slow the rate of leakage. Applying airtight materials and assemblies is often needed to control these leakage spots.

So how do you know if air leakage is a problem in your home? If you’re willing to do some detective work (and get your hands dirty), here are a few things to look out for in your attic:

• Inconsistent insulation levels. Ideally, insulation is installed to the correct depth and R-value at an even level throughout the space. If your insulation levels are patchy (shallow in some areas, deep in others), that is a possible sign that sealing, and possibly additional insulation, are needed.
• Improperly vented exhaust equipment. A bath fan can help to control ventilation on the interior of the home, but if it is not vented correctly, it can create a passageway for air leakage into the attic. In the winter, this heated air is exhausted into the attic space, increasing the temperature of the roof deck above, which can lead to ice dam formation.
• Dirty insulation. Are there areas where your attic insulation is discolored or dirty? Air from the inside of a house carries particles with it, and discolored insulation is a clear sign it is moving right through it. It’s likely that if you do some digging behind or below these dirty spots you’ll find an area that badly needs air sealing.
• Attic bypasses. Dropped soffits can be problematic when they are not sealed from above. Interior wall assemblies can be wide open to the attic with only a thin layer of insulation to protect them. This just isn’t enough to stop large amounts of air leakage from migrating into the attic space. Anywhere where you can see down into the interior of the house is bad news, and that area should be sealed off.
• Tricky recessed lights. Recessed can lights are problematic because they usually are not installed to be airtight. In addition to leakage, these fixtures generate large amounts of heat that contribute to heat loss to the attic, and can be a major player in ice dam formation. Ideally these assemblies would have an insulated, airtight box installed over the top of them to trap air and heat from inside.
• Moisture staining on the interior roof surface. When you see evidence of moisture-like staining occurring on the ceiling of your attic, it usually means this space is subjected to higher-than-normal temperatures during the winter. This can be a telling sign that warm, humid air is able to leak from the home into the attic where it hits the cold roof surface and forms condensation. Enough condensation quickly becomes bulk water and can cause even larger issues such as mold growth and material damage. This is a big problem and is proof that lack of sealing is a critical issue.

So you think you found spots where you could use some air sealing; what’s the next step? There’s do-it-yourself guides available in the library and online, but the best option is to hire a certified energy auditor or home performance contractor to do a thorough analysis of the building and consult with you on how air sealing will change the way your house performs.  A few things to keep in mind:

• Make certain that the company you hire will use a Blower Door test to measure leakage and an infrared camera to pinpoint the areas where leakage is occurring;
• Air sealing measures can create ventilation and indoor air quality (IAQ) issues, so choosing an experienced professional is important. Tell them you’re looking to improve your home’s energy efficiency, but want to insure good IAQ as well;
• Once you get a professional opinion, ask your auditor or consultant to help you determine the best contractor to hire to get the work completed effectively; and
• When you can be certain you’ve controlled the leakage in your attic, now is the best time to consult with an insulation contractor to ensure you’ve got the right levels in your attic so you can be ready when the snow falls.

A more technical, comprehensive description of the work involved in air sealing an attic can be found here.

Marin Blair is a home performance contractor and consultant based in Edina, MN.

© 2011 SCGH LLC. All rights reserved.

By Debbie Van Der Hyde

Are you thinking about installing solar panels, a wind turbine, or a geothermal heating and cooling system for your home? Do you want to create your own electricity from renewable resources? How do you work with your local utility to set up net metering to sell unused energy back to the grid?

Before starting down the residential renewables path, make sure you are already maximizing your home energy conservation efforts. Review our article 10 Quick Ways to Green Your Home, or check the US Department of Energy site for more ideas.

Once you’ve got your home and behaviors as green as can be, think about your goals for energy production. Do you want to reduce your energy costs? Make money from an abundant natural resource on your property? And how important is the length of the payback period for your investment?

Solar, wind, and geothermal all are free and sustainable resources, but the initial residential installation costs are higher than conventional electrical or heating and cooling systems. Solar and wind also are variable resources, meaning that they are not available 24/7—so the energy produced must be used, stored, or sold back to a utility. In contrast, geothermal is a steady resource but must be tapped through pipes installed deep within the ground. (See our stories on solar and wind or geothermal for more information.)

Four steps to becoming a renewable energy resident

Call your local utility to understand which renewable options and resources are available in your area. According to a workshop co-sponsored by Northwest Sustainable Energy for Economic Development (NW SEED) and Puget Sound Energy, homeowners can take four steps to become part of the local energy movement:

Step 1: Assess needs. Determine how much energy you currently use and estimate costs to install solar panels, a small wind turbine, or a geothermal pump.

• Solar: Depending on the installer, solar photovoltaic panels can cost approximately $6,000 to $9,000 per kilowatt (kW) installed. The size of the installation depends on your energy needs and the square footage of your home, with a typical installation averaging between three and eight kWs. Annual operating costs are minimal beyond periodically washing the panels. Homeowners also can purchase basic panel checkup plans from their solar contractor.

• Wind: Small wind turbines can be approximately $20,000 installed. Ongoing operating costs also are very low, and the environmental benefits can offset these costs over the lifetime of the system. In some cases, micro-turbines and roof-mounted wind units may cost less; however, some experts have concerns that the technology still is unproven. Be sure to do your homework if you explore this route.

• Geothermal: According to the Geothermal Exchange Organization, geothermal installation prices will vary based on home size, climate zone, excavation needs and the model of pump chosen. A general rule of thumb is $20,000 to $30,000 for a 2,000- to 3,000-square-foot home. These costs can be recouped over time, as customers will save approximately 50 percent on their utility bills, plus eliminate the costs of oil, propane, or natural gas.

Certain states and regions offer energy production incentives for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) produced with wind and solar as well as tax exemptions for systems less than one kW in size. The federal government also is offering until the year 2016 a 30-percent tax credit for the installed cost of small wind systems and geothermal pumps. Your state energy office or local utility may offer rebates for renewable energy systems as well. (For more information on state incentives, see the Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency .)

Step 2: Evaluate feasibility. Consider your site and think about the feasibility of a renewable energy installation.

For solar, consider the typical weather patterns in your region, your home’s orientation to the sun, available space on the roof, and whether the roof is shaded by trees.

For wind, evaluate the wind speed on your property, by using a professional service or by viewing wind maps of your region. Small wind turbines usually are suitable only for residents with more than one acre of land and a Class 3 or greater wind. Wind turbulence from buildings can be a deterrent, and towers need to be at least 60 feet high, often more. Urban dwellers, especially, must consider their city’s building parameters, including height restrictions, as well as neighborhood covenants that may preclude residents from modifying their home’s exterior.

For geothermal, consider your property size, landscaping, and access. In a small lot, a contractor will need to use a drill rig to create bore holes up to 400 feet deep to install vertical pipes. A less expensive alternative called a horizontal loop system often is used in rural settings. Flexible pipe is laid in coils in shallow trenches below the frost line. For retrofits, also consider the system that the geothermal heat pump is replacing. Using existing ductwork will reduce costs.

Step 3: Get a contractor and permits. Find reputable solar, wind, or geothermal contractors in your area and discuss your goals and site. Compare bids and make a selection based on which solution will best meet your goals. Once you have selected a contractor and signed a contract, you or your installer will need to apply for an electrical permit and building permit, if applicable. If you are planning to generate energy from solar or wind, your utility or contractor also will add a DC-to-AC power inverter near your existing utility billing meter. This inverter is critical to converting the energy produced by your solar panels or turbine into a form that matches the grid. (Geothermal pumps are used only for heating and cooling the home and not for energy production.)

For wind and solar, you also will need to contact your utility to understand and apply for an interconnection agreement. While it varies by utility and state, this process may include installing a production meter in conjunction with the solar or wind installation. The production meter keeps track of energy that you do not use to power your home and can sell back to the grid. Some utilities reverse the meter for the energy sold back; others cut an annual check and send it to participating residents.

Step 4: Follow up with tax credits and maintenance. Once your system is installed, you can apply for your state’s renewable energy system certification for a state production credit as well as applicable federal tax credits. You also will need to maintain your system per installer guidelines and monitor production to help make sure that it keeps working over the lifetime of the system.

Congratulations! You’ve taken the first steps toward joining the local energy movement.

Debbie Van Der Hyde is an experienced freelance writer with a strong interest in sustainability, clean energy, and the green economy. 

© 2011 SCGH, LLC. All rights reserved.

U.S. Environmental Protection Agency studies indicate that elevated concentration of household chemicals persist in the air long after being used. Long-term exposure to chemicals inside our homes can be harmful to our families.

Copyright (C) 123RF Stock Photos

Find and replace the toxic products in your home: Under almost everyone’s kitchen sink is a collection of toxic chemicals in the form of bug killer, disinfectants, furniture polishes, and many others. When you are using these products, you are bathing your home in poisons, which eventually could have a negative impact on your family’s health. In addition, household poisonings are one of the highest threats to the health of children.

An excellent first step in greening your house is to grab a note pad and a garbage bag. Go around to all the cabinets that store household chemicals, and take a look at their labels. If it says poison, danger, warning or caution on the can or box, write down what function it performs and throw the unused portion in the garbage bag (if it is sealed tightly). When finished, seal the bag, put it in a well-ventilated area (such as outside or in a garage) and look up when the next Household Hazardous Pickup Day is in your neighborhood.

Buy nontoxic household cleaners: Standard cleaning products contain chemicals that may affect ecosystems by contaminating soil and groundwater. Alternatively, natural, biodegradable household cleaners break down easily in the environment and rely on natural ingredients that protect the water and wildlife near your home.

A growing number of eco-friendly cleaning products are coming onto the market. Be sure to watch for greenwashing! Products that claim to be a greener choice because they use less packaging or water will most likely have the same dangerous chemicals in a more concentrated form. Try to find products that advertise that they are nontoxic and don’t use fragrances.

Courtesy of Caelus Consulting

Make your own household cleaning supplies: There are many inexpensive, easy-to-use natural alternatives which can safely be used in place of commercial household products. Recipes for homemade cleaning products can easily be found on the Internet and they will cover every aspect of home cleaning. Some of the most commonly suggested ingredients include baking soda, unscented soap, lemon, borax, and white vinegar.

• All-purpose cleaner: Mix 1/2 cup vinegar and 1/4 cup baking soda into 1/2 gallon of water.
• Bathroom cleaner: One part hydrogen peroxide (3%) with two parts water. Is especially effective on mold.
• Carpet stain remover: Mix equal parts white vinegar and water in a spray bottle. Spray on stain and leave for several minutes. Finish by washing the area with warm soapy water.
• Disinfectant spray: Mix 2 teaspoons borax with 4 tablespoons of vinegar and 3 cups hot water.

Use all-natural drain cleaners: While the first rule in proper drain maintenance is to keep hair and other items from going down the drain in the first place, even the best maintained pipes will become clogged over time. Below are instructions how to make a safe, nontoxic drain cleaner.*

• Mix 1/4 cup salt with 1 cup baking soda and pour down the drain. Let it sit for 3 to 6 hours.
• Boil 1 cup vinegar with 1 cup water in a microwave-safe measuring cup or bowl.
• Pour the boiling vinegar solution down the drain. The mixture will fizz, and quite a bit of foam may come up the drain and into the sink. Boil more of the mixture and repeat 1 to 2 more times after the fizzing stops.
• Turn on the faucet and flush the vinegar and baking soda out of the drain to avoid damage to the pipes from the acid solution.

Don’t use disposable cleaning products: Disposable cleaning products end up in landfills and can account for a large portion of your home waste stream. Here are some tips to avoid these products:

• Paper towels: Use natural-fiber rags and towels instead.
• Sponges: Use sponges made from recycled materials. Avoid synthetic or natural sponges.
• Avoid single-use mops or dusters: Opt for natural-fiber multi-use mops. Dust with a damp, natural-fiber rag.

*Source: http://www.ehow.com/how_5142548_make-natural-drain-cleaner.html

This is a chapter from the book “The Ultimate Guide to Greening your Home.” SCGH readers are eligible for a 20% discount on the digital versions of this book. (Enter SIERRA when prompted for a Discount Code.)

When it comes time to paint your walls, step number one is finding a product that won’t emit harmful chemicals in your home. That means paints with the lowest possible emissions of “volatile organic compounds,” or VOCs. Such paints are widely available, and you can learn all about them in our article, “Paints, adhesives, and other finishes.”

Then comes the hard part—or the fun part—depending on your approach: choosing the right color. Should it be light or dark? Hot or cool? Stimulating or calming? By working on your emotions, the color of a room can subtly affect your sense of well-being, and in the long run maybe even your health.

Here’s where AFM Safecoat’s Ayurveda Essence Paint Tool can help. AFM Safecoat has created a color system based on the priniciples of Ayurveda, an ancient Indian healing process. The Ayurveda practice suggests that our world contains five elements that combine to create three types of human constitutions, known as “doshas.” The elements are ether, air, fire, water, and earth. Ether and air are grouped together as “vata” (wat-a). The vata constitution is like that of the ectomorph, with a lean build and thin frame. Fire stands separately as “pitta” (pit-ta), and pitta types are endomorphs, with a moderate frame and musculature. Water and earth are known as “kapha” (kaf-a). Kapha types are like mesomorphs: substantial in mass. Most of us are hybrids (such as vata/pitta or pitta/kapha), but if we go against our primary dosha type, Ayurvedic principles suggest, we can create imbalance and disharmony in our lives.

So what does all this have to do with paint? Well, it means that you may want to choose your colors based on who you are. It’s all a question of balance. For example, vatas may benefit from earthy colors; pittas can balance their natural tendencies with cooling, soothing colors; and kaphas may want to choose bold, mobilizing colors.

If you’re curious about where you fit into this system of thought, try the “What’s Your Dosha” quiz below. After you’ve finished, we’ll show you how to make paint color choices that match your dosha type. Finally, we’ll help you combine the colors to create a look you love.

What’s Your Dosha?

This questionnaire gathers information about your basic nature—the way you were as a child or the basic patterns that have been true most of your life. If you developed an illness in childhood or as an adult, think of how things were for you before that illness. If more than one quality is applicable, choose the one that applies the most.

For physical traits, your choice will usually be obvious. For mental traits and behavior, you should answer according to how you have felt and acted most of your life, or at least in the past few years.

Your best colors

Now that you know more about whether you’re a vata, pitta, or kapha, let’s talk paint. Click on the appropriate dosha. When the picture of a person in a room comes up, roll over the color names beside it to change the wall color. Out of a total of 108 colors in the system, these are the best choices for you. For vatas, there are subdued earthy tones. For pittas, complex colors that cool and calm. For kaphas, vibrant and stimulating colors with warm overtones.

VATA

Vata individuals are light and dry by nature with a general tendency to a thin frame and low body mass. Skin and body functions can benefit from vigilant hydration. Balancing techniques can reduce anxiety. Deeper, darker colors suggestive of moisture can create balance.

Find your VATA color
Roll over the name to display the color.

PITTA

Pitta individuals may develop occasional inflammatory conditions. They have a general tendency to a moderate, athletic frame with a muscular body mass, and a sharp, energetic personality. Cooling therapy may lower a tendency toward irritability. Balance may be derived by colors that cool, moderate, and soothe.

Find your PITTA color
Roll over the name to display the color.

KAPHA

Kapha individuals have a general tendency to a large frame. Emotional nature tends toward calmness and steadfastness. Stimulating therapy can avert tendencies toward inertia and lethargy. Balance can be derived by using mobilizing colors such as bold, stimulating, and bright accents. Midtones and pastels may create the best color schemes.

Find your KAPHA color
Roll over the name to display the color.

Choose a few colors you like. Then, if you’d like to try combining some of these colors, move on to the next step.

Mixing and matching

By now, you probably have at least a couple of favorite colors in mind. If you’d like some help combining those colors, try the interactive tool below. Roll over the numbers to display different sets of harmonious color combinations.

Related Articles

Paints, Adhesives, and Other Finishes

Be it basic Berber or retro shag, carpet feels good underfoot, absorbs sound, and can add color and style to a room. No wonder it covers nearly 70% of the floors in the United States.

But some indoor-air quality experts suggest thinking twice about blanketing your floors with wall-to-wall fibers. Some new carpets emit a host of noxious chemicals that you’ll be breathing for months and even years after they’re installed. Another concern is that carpet acts as a reservoir for dust and dust mites, pet dander, soot, pollen, odors, fleas, and lots of other stuff you’d rather not have take up residence in your home–especially if you’ve got young children who spend most of their time down at floor level.

Smooth-surface floors–think hardwood, ceramic tile, linoleum, or concrete–are easier to keep clean than carpet, so they’re usually a better choice from a healthy-home perspective. And carpet has a host of other environmental problems: it’s a short-lived material that ends up in landfills or incinerators. Also, the majority of the carpet sold in the United States is made from nonrenewable petrochemicals.

But you don’t necessarily have to give up on carpets. Over the past decade a number of manufacturers have led the way toward cleaning up their industry’s practices. Products are now available that are healthier for people and the planet.

Top Tips

At home

• Air it out. Carpet emits the most chemicals when it’s new. Leave windows and doors open, and run a portable fan or the fan of your heating or air conditioning system for 48 to 72 hours after installation to remove chemical vapors. If you plan to do this, consider installing carpet when the weather is mild so you don’t waste as much energy.
• Keep it clean. Frequent use of a vacuum is a crucial to any carpet cleaning strategy.

When shopping look for

• Durability. Choose high quality carpets–either made from natural materials such as wool (which require much less petroleum to manufacture) or recycled synthetic materials.
• Healthy adhesives. Choose carpet, pads, and adhesives certified to have low emissions of VOCs and formaldehyde. Or skip the adhesives altogether and tack down the carpet using tack strips. Look for the Green Label Plus seal of approval from the Carpet and Rug Institute. Be aware, however, that while the Green Label Plus covers emissions of some worrisome chemicals, it doesn’t cover others, such as flame retardants and perfluorocarbons.
• Carpet tiles? Consider carpets sold in small pieces called “tiles” rather than “broadloom” (or sheet) carpets. Some brands of carpet tiles don’t require any adhesive and can be picked up and rearranged when you want to change a room’s look. If areas become worn or stained, tiles can be selectively replaced. (You might want to buy some extras for the future in case the color or pattern you choose is no longer made.)
• Recycled fiber. If you want a synthetic carpet, choose one with recycled content in the “face” fiber, the backing, or both. The higher the post-consumer recycled content, the more waste is diverted from landfills. Recycled carpet looks and performs as well as virgin-fiber synthetic carpet, and it keeps plastic waste out of landfills and incinerators. It takes about 40 two-liter plastic bottles to make a square yard of recycled polyester carpet.
• Earth-friendly manufacturers. Favor companies who guarantee they will take back the carpet at the end of its life for recycling. Recycling 500 square feet of carpet saves 24 gallons of oil, 550,000 Btu of energy and 247 pounds of landfill waste.

Avoid

• Petroleum-based carpets. Wool carpets are one option, as are floor coverings made from jute, seagrass, cotton, and other natural fibers. Some manufacturers are now making carpets with polyester-like materials derived from corn. And some are using soy instead of petrochemicals to make carpet backing. Agricultural products aren’t a perfect solution, however, considering the high levels of petroleum, pesticides, and other chemicals used for conventional farming.

Benefits…

…to your health
Remember that old advertising slogan “better living through chemistry”? Well, it didn’t quite work out that way with most carpets. Their fibers and the pads below them often emit potentially hazardous levels of VOCs and other chemicals. The worst fumes come from the carpet backing but even the face of the carpet is typically treated with stain-resistant, soil-resistant and antimicrobial chemicals. Some health and environmental experts oppose the use of antimicrobials in particular, concerned that they may lead to the growth of strains of antibiotic-resistant bacteria. Carpet fibers can also absorb the odors from new paint and furniture, holding onto these noxious chemicals and then releasing them into the air when someone walks on the carpet. For people who are sensitive to these chemicals, the fluff under their feet starts looking more ominous than elegant.

…to the Earth and your wallet
Carpet is also the most short-lived of the flooring alternatives, often lasting only 10 to 15 years. That makes it a problem in landfills, and a drain on your pocketbook. For example: The upfront costs of carpet and hardwood floors can be about the same. But, the hardwood floor may last two or three times as long.

Common Mistakes

• Capturing fumes. Carpet can absorb VOCs and formaldehyde from paint, adhesives, household cleaning products, and even personal care products. Choose low- or zero-VOC products.

Blanketing your heater. If you put carpet over radiant floor heating, you’ll reduce the heating system’s effectiveness.

Getting Started

• See if your area has one of the handful of organizations that accepts used carpets for recycling. They charge a fee for your old carpet, but it may be cheaper than sending it to the dump.
• If you’re still mystified about how to find a greener carpet, consider buying from a store that specializes in environmentally friendly home products. They’ll be knowledgeable about the best choices.
• Ask any potential installer the following questions:
  • How much expertise does the contractor have installing carpet?
  • Ask to for references, but also try to visit a few homes where the contractor has installed the same type of flooring that you’ve chosen. Check the quality of the installation as well as how well the material has held up.
  • If any adhesives, stains, sealants, mortar, or grout will be used during the installation, ask about low- or zero-VOC options. If you meet resistance to using low-VOC products, consider shopping around for a contractor who has experience with healthy home practices.
• For general advice on what questions to ask contractors and other tradespeople, see our “What to Ask Your Contractor” article.

Related Products & Services

• Flooring overview
• Bamboo floors
• Wood floors
• Concrete, stone, terrazzo floors
• Cork floors
• Linoleum floors

Many associate a sustainable home with solar panels, expensive floor renovations, various purchases of Energy Star appliances, and other costly investments. But greening your home doesn’t have to be costly and time consuming. Even though pricey investments, like going off the grid, can have great ecological and economics benefits, it’s important to accomplish the basics of going green first. Here are 10 quick and cheap steps you can take to make your home more energy efficient while helping you save money.

1. Insulate and save.

According to the Consumer Energy Center, 31% of air leaks occur in floors, walls, and ceilings. Poor insulation can cause significant indoor heat loss. Sealing air leaks in your home can save you 20% or more on your heating and cooling bill. Learn how to seal and locate leaks in your home by reading our Air Sealing and Weatherization article.

2.  Got light? Get CFLs.

By replacing incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescent lights you can save energy and money. CFLs use 75% less energy and can last 10 times longer than incandescent bulbs. When shopping, remember to purchase Energy Start labeled CFLs. Energy Star CFLs have passed the federal government’s criteria for lamp life, light output, energy use, and other performance characteristics. To get more tips and info visit our Fluorescent Lights article.

3. Solar drying.

The simplest way to cut down on your energy use is to install a clothesline to dry your laundry. This old-school way of drying your dripping jeans and t-shirts can save significant money on electric and/or gas bills. If you’re limited on outdoor space purchase an inexpensive free-standing drying rack that can be used indoors.

4. From garbage to garden.

By making the decision to compost your scraps year round, you can reduce your contribution to the 30% of yard and kitchen waste collected in landfills. You can make use of a small kitchen bin for scraps or an outdoor composting heap. Diverting waste from landfills and creating your own organic fertilizer will give you a great feeling of satisfaction. Learn how you can save money, have a garden that will be the envy of your neighborhood, and reduce your waste output by watching Sierra Club’s composting video.

5. Save water & money.

Installing low-flow shower heads and faucets is an easy DIY task. A typical shower head uses 5 – 8 gallons per minute, that’s approximately 40 gallons of water per five minutes of your shower. 8,000 gallons of water can be saved per year by installing a low-flow shower head or faucet. For ultimate efficiency install a low-flow shower head that includes a shut-off valve. This will allow you to turn off running water while you soap, shampoo, or shave.

6. Water filters.

Purchasing a portable filter or installing a residential filtration system will save you a lot of money unlike packaged water. Most people choose to drink bottled water because they believe it tastes better or is healthier than their average tap. However, tap water must meet various quality regulations enforced by your local water district and the Environmental Protection Agency. Once filtered, tap water usually has an excellent taste. By investing in a filter, you can avoid discarding thousands of plastic bottles. Various filtration options are available; to learn more view our Water Filter education.

7. Green cleaning.

Cleaning harsh stains and messes doesn’t have to be harsh on the environment. There are various natural and homemade techniques that can be implemented to clean your home. But if you are interested in commercially-bought merchandise, look for warning labels that indicate the presence of harmful chemicals, and avoid purchasing such products. An ideal cleaning agent will be marked as “contains no phthalates,” “phosphate free,” and “biodegradable.”  To learn what to avoid and shop for visit our Green Cleaning Supplies article.

8. Thermostat control.

Most residential energy is spent on temperature control. You can save money and energy without any additional investments by simply turning down the thermostat in cold weather and keeping it higher in warm weather. If you would like a more efficient approach to temperature control then install a programmable thermostat. According to Energy Star, an appropriately-used programmable thermostat will save you about $180 in annual energy costs. To get more info and tips visit our Programmable Thermostats education.

9.  Blackout curtains.

Using blackout curtains can reduce significant light and reduce heat loss. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, 10 – 25% of thermal energy escapes through windows. By investing in blackout curtains you can save money on your heating bills and reduce your output of greenhouse gases. When shopping for curtains look for organic cotton or hemp textiles.

10.  Goodbye tech vampires.

What is vampire energy? Vampire energy is the energy used by your appliances when in passive mode (the clock on your cable box) or standby mode (your turned off TV). Annually, this accounts for 5-8% of your home’s total electricity usage, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. This energy accounts for 25% of the total energy used by appliances. Once power strips are turned off, electrical currents do not flow to these devices. In addition, you can unplug appliances (not your refrigerator of course!) from outlets to save money and energy.

]]> http://www.sierraclubgreenhome.com/home-health/10-quick-ways-to-green-your-home/feed/ 8 http://www.sierraclubgreenhome.com/home-health/dehumidifiers/ http://www.sierraclubgreenhome.com/home-health/dehumidifiers/#comments Wed, 11 Aug 2010 15:06:37 +0000 Tyra Robertson http://www.sierraclubgreenhome.com/?p=766 How to deal with dampness

High humidity in the summer can be uncomfortable, and musty odors in a bathroom or basement are annoying. But humidity should be kept in check for more serious reasons, too. First, there’s your health: excess moisture encourages the growth of mold and dust mites, which are known to trigger asthma attacks and cause nasal irritation, sneezing, and other respiratory discomfort. Humidity can also lead to structural problems in your home, including warped and rotten wood. It also encourages unwanted guests: rats, mice, and wood-devouring carpenter ants and termites thrive in dampness. High humidity can even boost your utility bill in summer, for the simple reason that humidity makes you feel warmer, encouraging you to crank up the air conditioner.

The higher the humidity in your house, the harder it is for water to evaporate from your skin. That’s why humidity makes you feel warm in the summer. Water vapor can also make your basement or crawl spaces musty. Since it’s a lot cooler down there, a lot more water will condense because the cool air won’t hold as much water.

The ideal humidity inside your home is around 45%. Over 50% seriously encourages growth of molds and bacteria. If any part of your home is significantly higher than 45%, you should take the steps below and, if you still have a problem, consider a dehumidifier. On the other hand, letting humidity drop below 30% in living areas can cause other problems. For more about this, see our article on humidifiers.

Top Tips

At home
Many problems with excess humidity can be eliminated or greatly reduced by taking the following simple steps to stop moisture at the source.

• Seal cracks in basement walls and foundations. Cracks obviously admit moisture. Look for them and seal them with a high-quality concrete sealer. Where there is general dampness rather than leaks, the application of a waterproof coating on the concrete may help.
• Check plumbing. Look for leaks, but also wrap any cold-water and drainage pipes where you see condensation forming. Also look for openings where pipes come through walls and floors and seal them with a good caulk.
• Clean and seal gutters and downspouts. Much of the moisture in basements comes from water that soaks into the ground close to the building. The first line of defense is to make sure there are no leaks or clogs in the gutters and downspouts. Once the water reaches ground level, it should be routed at least three feet away from the house.
• Add underground drains? Serious drainage problems may require installation of underground drainpipes close to the foundation. If you already have such a drainage system, run water through it periodically to make sure it isn’t plugged. If the water backs up, you need to unclog the system.
• Use a properly sized fan in your bathroom.
• Use a range hood fan in your kitchen when cooking.

When shopping, look for

• Energy savings. The energy efficiency of a dehumidifier is measured by its energy factor, the volume of water (in liters) removed per kilowatt-hour of energy consumed. A higher energy factor means a more efficient machine. A hard-working dehumidifier can consume around $150 worth of electricity a year, so look for one with the EPA’s Energy Star label.
• Easy-to-read, easy-to-set controls. Many models have electronic controls–some with digital displays–that allow you to set the humidity where you want it. If yours doesn’t have such controls, you can purchase a hygrometer, which will measure your humidity. (These cost about $20.)
• The right size. Consider the size of the area that needs to be dehumidified and how damp the area is. A moderately damp 2,000-square-foot basement, for instance, will need a dehumidifier with capacity of 22 pints a day. An extremely damp area of the same size may need one that can wring out 40 pints a day. To cope with serious humidity problems in large crawl spaces, you may want to take a look at companies that provide more heavy-duty dehumidifiers specifically designed for crawl spaces.
• Easy maintenance. Most dehumidifiers have a water tank inside that must be periodically emptied. Some machines expect you to do it, and others do it automatically by draining into a basement drain or sump-pump cavity or pumping the water outside. If you are likely to forget to empty the water, then be sure to select one of the automatic machines. If, on the other hand, there isn’t a convenient outlet for an automatic to drain to, make sure the tank is easy to remove and carry. You’ll probably also want a washable air filter that can be easily cleaned.
• The right model for your climate. Many dehumidifiers operate best at temperatures above 65ºF. If the temperature of the area being dehumidified will routinely fall below that temperature, you should probably buy a dehumidifier designed to handle the cold–or one that shuts off if the temperature goes too low. Below 65ºF, frost can collect on the machine’s condensing coils, interfering with its operation (just as frost does in a refrigerator). If you see frost on the coils, turn off the unit and let it defrost before starting it up again.

Other Considerations

• As suggested above, you should shoot for an indoor humidity of 45%. But what does that really mean? Well, remember that notion that air can hold different amounts of water vapor at different temperatures–more when it’s hot than when it’s cold? That 45% figure refers to “relative humidity,” the percentage of water vapor in the air compared with the maximum amount the air can hold at any given temperature. When the relative humidity reaches 100%, water condenses out of the air. This is why it appears as dew on the grass at night, or collects on windows during cold weather.
• A dehumidifier works on the same principle as a refrigerator with the door open. Coils inside cool the air. Because cold air can hold less water than warm air, this causes moisture to condense into the dehumidifier’s tank.
• For the most efficient operation, close doors and windows when the dehumidifier is operating. No need to spend your hard-earned cash drying up the great outdoors.

Benefits…

..to you
A level of humidity around 45% is more comfortable and is better for your health. It’s especially important for people with allergies or respiratory problems.

…to your wallet
Because a dehumidifier can protect your home from moisture damage, it can save on costly repairs.

…to the Earth
Depending on your climate and comfort level, a dehumidifier might even cut your use of energy for air conditioning, which would reduce your emissions of global warming gases. And, of course, wherever the device prevents damages to your home, it saves on resources needed for repairs.

Getting Started

The June 2008 issue of Consumer Reports has a thorough guide to dehumidifiers, showing which are the quietest, most efficient, and economical. Look for promotional sales in late spring and early summer, when the new models are unveiled.

Related Products & Services

• Humidifiers
• Air conditioners

You’d think a newborn baby would have a fresh start when it comes to toxic chemicals. But chemicals move across the placenta, so a baby emerges with some of the same pollution in its system as its mother. Tests of umbilical blood have detected chemicals that cause cancer and birth defects as well as those that are toxic to the brain and nervous system.

Once born, infants take in even more pollution, through breathing, eating, and passage through the skin, just as adults do. But they are at greater risk from these exposures because of their physical differences. They have a faster metabolism. Their bodies are still developing rapidly, and exposures to toxic chemicals may disrupt a critical developmental step. They may not be able to protect themselves from chemicals as well as adults, because their immune systems are immature. And, per pound of body weight, they receive a greater dose of any chemical they’re exposed to. Some of the differences are stark.

Watch a video from Go Green Tube and learn more about purchasing safe baby products.

Per pound of body weight, a young child

• breathes two times as much air as an adult.
• eats more than three times as much food and tends to have less variety. For example, kids consume 10 times as much apple products, such as juice.
• drinks two to seven times more liquid. An infant living on breast milk or formula, for instance, consumes about one-seventh of its body weight each day. In a 155-pound adult, that would be the equivalent of 10 quarts!
• has 2.5 times more skin surface area, as well as skin that is as much as 30% thinner than adults’.

What You Can Do

With the information in our Home Health Center at your fingertips, you can take positive steps to help your child stay healthy. Here’s a guide to the articles every mom, dad, and grandparent should read:

• Baby bottles. Kids may not be able to metabolize certain chemicals that adults can, such as bisphenol-a (BPA). So make sure they aren’t exposed to this potentially hormone-disrupting chemical in a hard-plastic “polycarbonate” sippy cup or baby bottle or in the plastic linings of some canned food or beverages. Animal studies have linked low levels of BPA to problems such as hyperactivity, learning disabilities, early onset of puberty, and increased risk of diabetes.
• Bedding. Make sure your bundle of joy isn’t wrapped in fabrics with toxic finishes or surrounded by dust mites. Our article on beds and bedding will tell you all you need to know about mattresses, sheets, pillows, beds, and blankets.
• Cleaning products. If cleanliness is next to godliness, then parents who use buy anti-bacterial soaps should be a couple of steps closer to heaven, right? Wrong. Our survey of cleaning products explains why these soaps are doing more harm than good.
• Diapers. Which is better: disposable or cloth diapers? As you’ll learn in our article, it depends . . .
• Floor Coverings. Kids spend a lot of time close to the ground. So before you buy a cushy new carpet for your favorite rug rat, make sure the fibers are not going to emit a known carcinogen, formaldehyde, or other chemicals that could be harmful to your child’s developing body.
• Food. Sure, most kids like candy, sodas, and processed snacks, but reserve them for the occasional treat. Make sure that most of what your children eat is fresh, wholesome, and pesticide free. Our food article tells you how to put together delicious, simple-to-make meals that are good for your family and the rest of the planet. Remember-you’re establishing healthy eating habits that could last a lifetime.
• Personal care products. People who crawl on the ground and make mud pies need plenty of soap and shampoo. They also likely need sunscreen and maybe even bug repellant. Before you buy, learn the do’s and don’ts of personal care products, for adults and kids alike.
• Pesticides. Go organic in the garden for the good of your kid. A dose of pesticide that might not bother an adult could hurt a child, as it did in a case of diazinon poisoning in an infant following application by an unlicensed pesticide company. The only family member to get sick was the infant.
• Toys. From a young child’s perspective, toys are for chewing. So make sure the playthings you buy don’t contain lead or phthalates. Our toys article has the scoop on both.
• And More . . . People who care about kids can get good advice about building a healthy home in “9 Home Health Risks,” an article that summarizes the most important home-based threats, including some not mentioned above, such as lead, mold, and radon.

Yes we know, everything causes cancer, nothing is safe for our kids, a lot of paranoia, right?

Sometimes these concerns are for real. A chemical of significant importance to parents and scientists these days is Bisphenol-A (BPA). BPA is a common chemical used in plastics for increased flexibility and molding. It can be found in your child’s plastic sippy cup, binkies, and even canned food. The lining found inside some canned foods is very similar to high density plastics, thus likely to contain significant levels of BPA. Numerous studies have proven that Bisphenol-A can negatively impact your health. Experts have advised people to shop for BPA-free products. In general, avoiding plastics whenever possible is a good idea.

Read on and read the label before you purchase that pair of dangly keys or canned mac’n’cheese.

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Research Reveals Unpleasant News

Leaching is the process of a chemical seeping out of its original binding and into its surroundings (see example here).  A university study was conducted to determine the leaching abilities of plastic bottles wherein the interaction between warm liquids and polycarbonate plastics released Bisphenol A into the drinking solution.  During the Harvard study, each student was given two polycarbonate bottles, which were not to be cleaned in the dishwasher (to void increased heat) and filled only with cold water.  The students’ urine samples came back positive for a BPA increase of 69 percent. Is this a concern? The unfortunate answer is “yes” because Bisphenol-A has been shown to alter the endocrine system causing early sexual development.  Changes in fetal development, sperm production, and malfunctioning hormones are also results of BPA ingestion.

Recently, the University of North Carolina- Chapel Hill released a study, the first of its kind, linking behavioral problems in children from women that were exposed to BPA during pregnancy. The study measured levels of BPA in urine samples at three different stages of

pregnancy- the first at 16 weeks, then at 26 weeks and finally at birth. The results showed that the women who had the highest levels of Bisphenol-A in their systems at the earliest stages of pregnancy had daughters who were more aggressive and hyperactive. To the scientists’ surprise, girls seemed to be the most affected while boys didn’t have a big difference in aggression but instead became more anxious and depressed. The greatest effects caused seem to be those of the earliest exposures. Most women can be affected even before they know they are pregnant, which can later cause even greater problems for their unborn children. Last year Canada became the first country to ban Bisphenol-A in baby bottles and Wal-Mart and Toys-R-Us have announced they will stock only BPA-free bottles.

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How to drink beverages without worrying about BPA exposure

It used to be simple. If people were worried about Bisphenol-A exposure, all they needed to do was go out and buy a BPA-free bottle, usually made from aluminum.  However, BPA-free doesn’t necessarily mean BPA-free anymore.  A major bottle manufacturer, SIGG, revealed that their supposed BPA-free aluminum bottles actually did contain BPA in bottle linings.  Another bottle manufacturer, Gaiam, recently revealed that their BPA-free aluminum bottles did contain BPA, 23.8 parts per billion under extreme heat conditions. This amount is ten times more potent than the Bisphenol-A levels found in SIGG. So what is a worried consumer to do when bottles claiming to be BPA-free aren’t really BPA-free?  Fortunately, more and more options are becoming available for the eco-conscious consumer.  Here are some alternatives.

• Stainless steel- Unbreakable, portable, and safe, stainless steel bottles are one of the best reusable bottles to own
• BPA-free plastics: Look for plastic beverage containers made from high-density polyethylene (#2 HDPE), low density polyethylene (#4 LDPE), or polypropylene (#5 PP).
• Aluminum bottles– There are manufacturers out there that offer true BPA-free aluminum bottles, just be shopping-savvy
• Glass
• Ceramic mugs

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Learn More

The “Rubber Ducky” Chemical

Graduate With Your Green Gown On

Home Recycling Advice

Raising Healthy Children